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rue-madame's Diaryland Diary


Wearing thin

Iíve been keeping an eye on the Spring collections, and except for the first images from Paris, Iíve mostly been bleh and bof about everything.

New York was boring and shapeless and colorless in a way that I didnít like. Even Marc disappointed me. The black label pieces he showed only looked good because they were hanging on models who are nearly 6 feet tall and weigh 3 pounds. The stiff coats and skirts? Those wonít flatter anyone who isnít built like an ironing board. And his lower-priced line just sucked for anyone old enough to have lived through the 80s. Light blue unitards flatter no one.

Milan was boring. The only thing I enjoyed was the Dsquared collection because it had a pulse. D&G can be counted on for some fun, but how much longer are they going to mine the whole Neapolitan/Sicilian Madonna/Whore deal? (Mmmm, probably for as long as they can, and then some.)

Paris so far is more interesting, and not just because my favorite Martin Grant has shown another beautiful collection of razor-sharp 1960ís-inspired crisply wearable clothes. If I could, I would buy one of everything in his collection. I love it that much. I canít wait for Chanel and Lanvin.

Itís not that I only like collections that I can see myself wearing. Iím fine with collections that are heavy on ideas or theory so long as there is something new or arresting being said in fabric or construction or color. Thereís only so much rehashing of the past Iím willing to go along withóat a certain point, you want to know if the designer has a point of view or an idea that is wholly his or her own. This is one reason why Iím able to like Prada, even though there is so little that I ever want to wear, or Galliano who is so over-the-top as to be impractical. You get the sense that their inspiration might change from season to season, but the core of what they believe is unwavering.

So much of what passes for fashion these days is just styling. I think thatís what irks me. How else to explain Louella or Imitation of Christ?

As Royal Tenenbaum once said, ďIím not talking about dance lessons. Iím talking about putting a brick through the other guyís windshield. Iím talking about taking it out and chopping it up.Ē

Damn straight.

2:41 p.m. - 2005-10-04



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